“Ukraine's national soup carried a Slavic root for hogweed.”
Borscht traces to the Old Slavic word brshch, which originally referred to hogweed (Heracleum sphondylium), a wild plant whose young shoots were fermented into a sour broth. The word is attested in East Slavic sources from the 14th century, though the practice of fermenting plant stems into acidic liquid is certainly older. The shift from hogweed broth to beetroot soup occurred gradually across Ukrainian and Polish cooking between the 16th and 18th centuries, as beetroot cultivation spread across Eastern Europe.
By the 18th century, borscht in Ukraine had become primarily a beetroot soup, though the name persisted from its earlier plant-based meaning. Regional variations multiplied: cold borscht in Lithuania, clear borscht in Poland for Christmas Eve, and the rich, meat-laden Ukrainian version that became the archetype. Each community adjusted the recipe, but the word held steady across Slavic languages, with minor spelling variations.
Jewish communities in the Pale of Settlement adopted borscht as a staple, and Yiddish-speaking immigrants carried both the dish and the word to America in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The Catskill Mountains resort area became known as the Borscht Belt, where Jewish comedians performed for audiences who ate the soup at every meal. The word entered American English through this cultural pathway.
In 2022, UNESCO inscribed Ukrainian borscht culture on its List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding, prompted by Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine. The inscription was explicitly political: a recognition that borscht is Ukrainian, not generically Eastern European. The word became a symbol of cultural sovereignty in wartime.
Related Words
Today
Borscht is no longer just a soup. Since 2022, it has become a marker of Ukrainian identity in international discourse, invoked in the same breath as sovereignty and cultural survival. Restaurants from Berlin to Toronto have added Ukrainian borscht to their menus as a statement of solidarity.
A bowl of beetroot soup became a flag. That is what war does to words.
Explore more words