loppestre

loppestre

loppestre

Old English

Lobster was once so cheap and abundant in colonial New England that it was fed to prisoners and servants — and there were laws against serving it more than three times a week.

Old English loppestre may derive from Latin locusta, which meant both 'lobster' and 'locust' — the Romans used the same word for a marine crustacean and a flying insect, presumably because both have segmented bodies, long antennae, and a tendency to swarm. Some linguists suggest a corruption of locusta through a hypothetical Vulgar Latin *lopusta. The path from 'locust' to 'lobster' is not elegant, but language rarely is.

Lobsters were not always luxury food. In colonial New England, they washed ashore in piles two feet deep. They were ground into fertilizer, used as fish bait, and fed to servants, prisoners, and enslaved people. Some indentured servants' contracts stipulated that they would not be fed lobster more than three times a week. The animal was a poverty food.

The transformation began with the railroad. In the 1880s, railroad companies began serving lobster to inland passengers who had no idea it was considered trash food on the coast. Removed from its reputation, lobster tasted like a luxury. By the early 1900s, demand from restaurants and tourists had driven prices up. The poverty food became a status symbol within a single generation.

Today, a Maine lobster dinner costs $30-60. The global lobster industry is worth billions. The American lobster (Homarus americanus) is managed through one of the most carefully regulated fisheries in the world — trap limits, size minimums, v-notching of egg-bearing females. The animal that colonial servants resented eating is now too expensive for most of them to afford.

Related Words

Today

The lobster's journey from trash to treasure is one of the cleanest examples of how culture, not taste, determines value. The animal did not change. The flesh did not improve. The only thing that changed was who was eating it and whether they knew its reputation. Remove the context and the food becomes whatever the eater expects.

Servant contracts once limited lobster to three times a week. Today a lobster roll in Manhattan costs $40. The animal that prisoners complained about is now the thing tourists fly to Maine for. Nothing about the lobster changed. Everything about us did.

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