“The herb that gives us the word 'savory' — as in, the opposite of sweet — may be named after satyrs, the lustful forest gods of Greek mythology who supposedly ate it as an aphrodisiac.”
Savory — the herb — comes from the Latin saturēia, which Pliny the Elder connected to the Satyrs (Satyroi) of Greek mythology. The connection is aphrodisiac: satyrs were associated with uncontrolled desire, and the herb was believed to stimulate lust. Whether this etymology is correct or a folk invention is debated, but the association was strong enough that some medieval monasteries prohibited growing savory in their herb gardens. Too exciting for monks.
The adjective 'savory' — meaning pleasantly salty or spiced, the opposite of sweet — entered English from the Old French savouré (flavored, tasty), from the Latin sapor (flavor, taste). This is a different word from the herb, though the two merged in English. The herb savory and the adjective savory share a spelling but different origins. The herb is from saturēia; the adjective is from sapor. English collapsed them into one word.
There are two main species: summer savory (Satureja hortensis) and winter savory (Satureja montana). Summer savory is milder and is the one used in cooking — it has a peppery, thyme-like flavor. In German-speaking countries, savory is called Bohnenkraut — 'bean herb' — because it is the traditional seasoning for bean dishes. The combination is practical as well as culinary: savory is believed to reduce the flatulence caused by beans.
Summer savory is one of the traditional herbs of Provençal cuisine — it appears in herbes de Provence alongside thyme, rosemary, and oregano. In Bulgarian cuisine, savory (chubritsa) is as common as salt. Shopska salata, the national salad, is finished with dried savory. A herb that most English speakers cannot identify is the national seasoning of Bulgaria.
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Savory the herb and savory the adjective share a spelling and nothing else. The herb comes from Latin saturēia (possibly: satyr's herb). The adjective comes from Latin sapor (flavor). English merged them by accident, and now the herb sounds like it describes its own taste.
In Bulgaria, savory is everywhere — on salads, in stews, on grilled meats. In England, most people have never tasted it knowingly. The same herb is a national staple and a complete unknown, depending on which side of Europe you stand on.
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