marinade

Spanish marinar meant to cure in brine — from mar (sea), from Latin mare. Sailors pickled fish in seawater and vinegar for long voyages. The technique — submerging food in an acidic liquid — was practical before it was culinary. French adopted the word as marinade, applying it to the liquid used to tenderize and flavor meat. The leap from preserving fish at sea to flavoring steak on land was natural: the acid does the same work in both cases.

The science of marinading involves acid breaking down protein structures on the surface of meat. Vinegar, citrus juice, wine, and yogurt all function as marinade acids. The effect is limited to the outer few millimeters — despite the common belief that marinading overnight penetrates deeply, food scientists have shown that most marinades do not reach far below the surface. The flavor stays on the outside. The tenderizing effect is mostly superficial.

Every cuisine has marinating traditions. Indian tandoori uses yogurt and spice marinades. Korean bulgogi uses soy sauce, sesame oil, and pear juice. Peruvian ceviche 'cooks' raw fish in citrus juice — the acid denatures the proteins until they are opaque, mimicking the effect of heat. Japanese teriyaki marinades use soy, mirin, and sugar. The word is French, but the technique is universal.

Modern marinading has been transformed by vacuum sealers and injection techniques. Vacuum-sealing meat in a marinade accelerates penetration by removing air and increasing surface contact. Injection marinading — used commercially for poultry — delivers liquid directly into the muscle tissue. The sailor's brine has become a manufacturing process. The sea is far away.